This is the fourth entry in Scott Ramsay's travel diaries from Zimbabwe. Our travel writer spent two weeks as a guest of the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority. See PART ONE, PART TWO and PART THREE of the five-part series:
Tuesday, October 20
OUR Tuesday morning was spent rafting the rapids near the Victoria Falls with Wild Horizons, one of the several rafting operations.
We gathered at the top of the gorge, and walked down the steep sides to our rafts. We climbed in and our “pilot” gave a comprehensive safety briefing, a necessity given the various Level 5 rapids we’d be tackling.
Ranking of rapids range from Level 1 to Level 6, the highest being “life threatening”. There was one of these in our morning, but we were going to walk around it, thankfully. People have died doing what we were about to do, so there was a real sense of apprehension in our boat!
The rafting starts very near the base of the Falls, and we were treated to a spectacular view from the bottom of the gorge. All of us on the raft agreed that it was probably the best view of the falls.
We started paddling, and our pilot guided us expertly through all the rapids. We were one of the few rafts on the river not to capsize. It’s a great experience, and something that everyone should do.
The waters are huge, but everyone wears lifejackets and helmets, and the guides are experienced and comforting. You do feel like you’re in safe hands.
Roadblock ... Baboons troop across the Victoria Falls-Hwange highway
Wednesday, October 21
Wednesday saw us travel to Hwange, the largest wildlife wilderness area in Zimbabwe, covering a massive 14,600 square kilometres. It boasts more than 100 mammal species, and more than 400 bird species.
There are apparently more than 30,000 elephants in Hwange, far beyond the number which is sustainable. But it does make for some of the better wildlife viewing. Having visited most of the major wildlife areas in Southern Africa, the amount of game that I saw in just one day in Hwange was superior to anything I have seen elsewhere.
We saw lion, elephant, buffalo, kudu, sable, zebra, giraffe in one afternoon. Lucky perhaps, but impressive nevertheless.
Barely legal ... Hitch-hikers sit precariously on a small pick-up truck
We stayed at Wilderness Safari’s Makololo Plains camp in Hwange. The camp’s name describes its situation well, looking as it does over a vast plain of open land, with a waterhole right in front of the dining area. It’s a very special setting, and made all the more special by the first rate service, food and people.
What’s also particularly nice is the lack of people. The “camp” is small, with only a limited number of people able to stay. It’s also very remote, so you do feel like you are all alone in Africa.
Rooms are well appointed, and very comfortable, and spread out far from each other along raised board walks. They look out over the plain too, and because the camp isn’t fenced, the guides walk you back and forth from the main lodge area during the dark hours.
Our stay at Makololo was, for me, something I’ll never forget. And that is in large part due to our guide, called OB, for the duration of our stay. Not only did he seem to know everything about anything in the bush, including animals, plants and local folklore, but he was also very entertaining in his approach.
He has been living and working in amongst the wildlife areas of Zimbabwe for more than 40 years, and has spent a few years in the anti-poaching team.
He came into his fore during the after-dinner drinks, with wild and funny stories of his time guiding people, including an hysterical portrayal of how he removed a tick from one of his clients (no further details will be forthcoming here – you’ll have to visit Makololo and ask OB yourself to find out more).
But perhaps most memorable was when he took us for an early morning walk. He pointed out all the little things, and made them as interesting as sightings of the Big Five. He showed us how to make rope from bark, and he scooped up a tiny ant lion, showing us how the tiny insect hunts ants.
OB also asked us to taste the difference between male and female elephant dung – something which sounds plain disgusting, but in reality is hilarious and educational. (Female dung tastes sweeter, while male dung is more sour – important, OB said, because when you are tracking elephant, it’s important to know whether it is a male or female you are going to encounter).
He made my stay more than memorable – probably unforgettable. Thank you OB!
(Scott's travel diaries will continue on Monday)